70s Witch

I had an urge to watch Tim Burton’s Dark Shadows a little while ago. If truth be known I wasn’t really blown away the first time I saw it, but a second viewing really made me fall in love with it, particularly the costumes which had slightly passed me by before. They. Are. Amazing. I’ve been through numerous clothing phases in my life, influenced by different eras and references, and now feel that I’m just some mix of all of them. But one constant throughout most looks has always been what I like to refer to (in the eloquent words of Nancy Spungen) as ‘fuckin’ Stevie Knicks in hippie clothes’. This was confirmed to me by my dear friend when we were deconstructing our personal styles to each other the other day (because that’s what real friends do people), and she said that to her I’d always been some Wednesday Addamsy-witchy-20s-bohmeianny-60s-hippy-Kate-Bushy-kind of thing. Or something to that effect, which I placed firmly in my ego engine and skipped along on my way with.

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It’s quite true. I have always been influenced by 60s and 70s psychedelia fashions in some way, even if I didn’t know that’s what it was. As an 11 year old this was manifest in my impressive collection of long tie-dye crinkle skirts that my mother had to lovingly twist out over the bath in order for them for retain their alluring rumpled ridges. At about twenty-odd, I fell in love with the Pre-Raphaelites and tried in vain to grow my hair as long as a Waterhouse sea nymph. Then it was all about the 1910s-20s bohemia, with lots of velvet, lace and beading, which to my mind is a predecessor of the embellished swathes of fabric and tassels synonymous with the late 60s and early 70s. One of my greatest purchases at this time was a purple sequin kaftan that I acquired from the CND shop on the Holloway Road for five of the Queen’s pounds and subsequently wore to most social events I was invited to between 2005-2008. This also, perhaps not inconsequently ties in with the time in my life when people kept telling me I looked like Kate Bush. Anyway, I’m not sure where all of this is going really but suffice it to say that that whole velvet drenched, kaftan bedecked, occult obsessed style has in some form or another influenced me, either in its own right or via its precursors and I’m quite happy that I’m identified with it by those closest to me.
Soooooooooooo, who wants to look at some wonderful gothically psychedelic clothes? Yes me too. Let us have some music whilst we browse…

Play Me!

Burton’s film is obviously an adaptation the cult TV series which aired in the late 60s -early 70s. So it is only right that we take a look at some moments from that production too….

93f15999823a99ecbc8a3120e78fd6415a4f2f0b6a684abfe148c215c8c9775aa9b2f1fa882a59e821f67fde4905f354The original Angelique.

Darks Shaddows.20 looks a touch more HD.

fb85e9885898e3c9c2edfe6617beb844How gorgeous is this outfit? She looks like Daphne from Scooby-Doo’s edgy little sister, who doesn’t have time to solve mysteries because she’s too busy getting high and listening to Janis Joplin.

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I also kinda fell in love with Dr. Hoffman in all of her drunken glory – and that hair! Fabulous!

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Angelique, played by Eva Green, boasts some enviable retro tailoring which I heartily approve of, I do so love an executive witch.

b36453f2c22d67a92b137dfc70a09d800e89f1d5a2970d7b649a6b8f21b89b41Love the spiderweb break in the glass.

And look at little Vicky Winters, super cute in her preppy 70s threads.

However I think the belle of the Halloween ball has to be Elizabeth Collins, I want everything she wears, inlcuding the hair pieces. So, so good…

Look at that necklace! And the Paisley! And all the big sleeves! Fab-u-lous!

ef7df55ca3f84f59f5598cb270d088f3Of course we can’t forget dear Barnabas, his accessorising alone warrants a golf clap.

If you are as seduced by this look as I am, here are a few good online resouces for repro or inspired pieces…

Free People – good for flares and kaftans.

Sugar High Love Stoned – Reproduction Woodstock finest

Girl on a Vine – Unreal kaftans in a range of beautiful fabrics

So, let’s finish off with a few more shots from this period that I just love…

jinx dawson covenJinx Dawson

Pamela Courson

Well quite.

xxx

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The Locked Files Part 2 – A Bad Case of Hives

I’ve got a bad case of hives. Beehives! In the second instalment of The Locked Files I’m going to explore that most fabulous of do’s – the hive.

a
For years, when my hair was long, I would wear it in a hive of sorts. It was usually backcombed, messily pinned up with a multitude of Kirby grips and had pieces hanging about the front framing my face. I had totally forgotten that I ever used to do this until recently. Now, after my Christmas hack, my hair is getting longer and I’ve been re-visiting the look. I’m not sure if it’s really and truly to be considered a beehive though, and herein lies the problem.

How to define a hive? Are we purely talking about the narrow cones of the Ronnettes or the wider, poofier and messier Bardot? Is Patsy’s famous and fiercely immovable bouff a hive or just a French twist? Is Audrey’s hair really a hive as so many always describe it? Is there a height limit? Is there a width criteria? Essentially, what’s a beehive and what’s just an updo with volume? Well like the mysteries of the Sphinx, I’m not convinced anyone really knows. As such I’m going to use my own definition, which is; if it’s had a degree of back-combing and is pinned up with an air of ‘yeah I’m a hive, and?’ then it’s a beehive.

bHive?

Hive?

kI’m gonna say this is definately a hive, because, well you dont mess with Patsy.

I think at its heart the hive is as much about attitude as it is height or form. I think that’s why I love it. I can’t think of a more kick-ass-I’m-a-woman-with-a-signature-fragrance-and-impressive-collection-of–spendy-underwear do than a hive. It’s so confident, bold and peacocking to backcomb your locks in to a huge matted nest and then stick it on top of your head like a massive sexy sign which screams, ‘GIVE ME ALL OF YOUR SK-II SKINCARE, THAT GREAT JOB OVER THERE IN THE CORNER AND HALF A POUND OF CHARBONNEL AND WALKER, STAT’. A woman with a beehive never gets told to ‘cheer up love’ by some patronising git on the street. She never gets ID’d for cigarettes when she’s left her drivers licence at home and has to get her boyfriend to buy them for her, despite being 27. But most importantly, she never, ever gets asked when she’s going to have a baby because everyone knows that the other stuff she’s’ got going on, like do the cha-cha in Monaco or being a cat burglar, is frankly just a bit more interesting. In short, a beehived woman is a woman to be respected.

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The beehive itself was created at the dawn of the 1960s by Margaret Vinci Heldt. She was asked in by Modern Beauty Salon magazine to design a new style that would ‘reflect the coming decade’. It became so popular that the Cosmetologist Chicago trade association created a scholarship in her honour.
The subsequent decades saw the look falling in at out of mainstream fashion, evolving in to other styles and just generally kicking about in our lady arsenals to be pulled out in times of need.

What a do.

So here’s my homage to that entirely unapologetic and fabulous look.

First things first, let’s see how we make a hive. I stumbled across this video a few months back of Gizzie Erskine doing her signature hive on her mate Sally Hughes which I thought was pretty helpful and fun….

Clickity Click!

Also for a more detailed, blow by blow account, here’s the ever lovely Cherry Dollface with her tutorial.

And again with the clicking!

Right, now we all know how to do them, lets start with those gals who began it all, the Ronnettes. They of course weren’t the only 60s girl group to sport the look, but it will forever be synonymous with them.

Vidal working his magic.

cbeehive_rexfeatures_1005000aBardot, hair idol, always. I always feel much more myself with messy hair; hastily pinned up,tendrils hanging down and all. I’ve just never been a neat hair kinda gal.

dSo pretty!

d16c4c3ee4e4c3e1b43dbf7df1ab51afMeow

376411d0b209a0c66033a2dc24922e45The evolution of a style.

7dd98f70284917607ba5196eb7c1b9c4Suzanne Pleshette

c2d349c872e12e26f81bd186ae4febc6The Shrimp

The 90s saw a second honeymoon for the beehive as it became rebranded the French Twist. Well if it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck…The likes of Ivana Trump popularised the style and made it the power-do for women in royal blue blazers and statement gold jewlery.

Ivana Trumpc08c0a584657f26981943954f6e06ff2Claudia being the 90s personified.

The beehive seems to be constantly re-invented by each new decade. It currently remains the darling do for fashion editorials the world over, combining vintage nostalgia with luxe glamour.

41e399925e0760608d39fae3e5fd694ac57c79133fb96933df6dada95a76e26efbf298578ba3369f44aa40c35cb24ec6defe8c96c8c14de01f92ed39672a1f410ac1f01e77b74a30a6e1ced85bc0238f

Then there are of course those modern ladies who have made it their trademark look.

529e68a1fdd188fe0e1f2d01d4088de1Gizzie

74ac2e9fa9ef4767f45daede49c7e9aaJoan

d7f6b02a7ca1b54d39b34696de1814a7Adele

e006fd3b845be85d306d66302dde8a21And of course Amy.

So I suppose the moral of the tale is that the hive can be anything you want it to be. Big, small, neat or messy. So go out there and get teasing. And if you really want, try out one of these varriations…

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xx

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